Thick Crochet Slippers

After looking up a few patterns for slippers, I made my own. I originally intended them for the husband. However, he found a pair he liked at the store. So I unraveled and redid the first slipper to make it fit me. A friend loved them so much; I offered to make her a pair as well.

In this blog post, I've included the pattern. This is one of the first crochet patterns I've ever written. So feedback is appreciated!

Thick crochet slippers!

Main Info

• Shoe size: Women's 6.5 (but it stretches)
• Time: 1.5 hours
• Yarn: Caron One Pound
• Azure
• Soft Sage
• Soft Grey Mix
• Hook size: K/10 1/2 - 6.50MM

Pattern

Notes

• The main body of the slipper uses two strands of yarn. Using two strands means the stitches are much thicker and the slipper is made much faster.
• To make a different size slipper with the same yarn see the end of this post.
• Beginning ch 2 does not count as a stitch. Not counting the ch 2 as a stitch reduces the visible gap in each round.
• After the first row, start each round in the same stitch as the ch 2. See the "Thoughts on the process" section for a picture.
• Join a round by slip stitching into the first stitch, not the ch 2.
• Stitches:
• ch
• sc
• dc
• dc2tog - double crochet 2 stitches together, also known as a dc decrease

Main slipper body

Start with a magic circle

Row 1 (6 st): ch 2, 6 dc in the magic circle, slip stitch into first dc

Row 2 (12 st): ch 2, 2dc in each dc around, slip stitch into first dc

Row 3 (18 st): ch 2, *1 dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch, repeat from *, slip stitch into first dc

Row 4-8 (18 st): ch 2, 1 dc in each stitch around, slip stitch into first dc

Row 9 (16 st): ch 2, 2 dc, 1 dc in next 13 stitches, 2 dc in last stitch, ch 2 turn

Row 10 (16 st): ch 2, 1 dc across all 16 stitches, ch 2 turn

Row 11 (18 st): ch 2, 2 dc, 1 dc in next 15 stitches, 2 dc in last stitch, ch 2 turn

Row 12 (18 st): ch 2, 1 dc across all 18 stitches, ch 2 turn

Row 13 (18 st):  ch 2, 2 dc, 1 dc in next 6 stitches, dc2tog in next 2 stitches, dc2tog in next 2 stitches, 1 dc in next 6 stitches, 2 dc in the last stitch

Sewing up the back: Remove the hook from the loop, reinsert into the back loop of the stitch on the other corner, pull the loop that was on the hook through that back loop, slip stitch in the back loops down to the heel, tie off

Trim

Insert crochet hook into the first skipped dc in row 9, pull up a loop, ch 1, sc around the slipper opening with 1 sc per dc in row 8 and 2 sc on the side of each row.

Thoughts on the process

When I say "start each round in the same stitch as the ch 2," I mean the stitch circled in red pictured below.

Make sure to start your row in the circled stitch.

The ch 2 does not count as a stitch and the first stitch is made there because without it there would be a noticeable gap where each row is joined along the line in this picture.

Finally, to better understand what I mean for the trim. Here are two reference pictures.

Ideas to change the slipper size

If you want to use the same yarn but make a different size, I'd recommend changing the number of stitches in the first row and then following the pattern accordingly (with the stitch count adjusted) until around row 8. If you are making a bigger size, measure if more rows need to be added before continuing. If a smaller size, fewer than 8 rows may be needed.

The same goes for rows 9-13, rather than stitching in 14 of the 18 stitches for row 9 measure if that will make too small or big of a gap for the foot. For the length of this part of the slipper, the main pattern to keep is increasing at both ends for every other row. Otherwise, add or remove rows as needed.

Overall, this pattern is very flexible, and since the stitches are so big, there aren't that many to unravel if you find the slipper doesn't quite fit.